How to Change Your Own Oil (Step-by-Step)

Joel Thompson

Oct 18

8 min read

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An oil change is the first real job most of us do on our own cars, and it's the one you'll do the most. It takes about an hour, it costs a fraction of what a shop charges, and every time you do it you get a look underneath your car that a quick-lube place will never give you.

Why change your own oil?

Engine oil keeps metal parts from grinding against each other, carries heat away and holds dirt in suspension until the filter catches it. Over time it breaks down and gets dirty, and it stops doing that job well.

Doing it yourself means you know exactly what oil and filter went in, the drain plug was tightened to spec and not hammered on with an air gun, and you got to look for leaks, torn boots and loose parts while you were under there. On an older car, that look is worth as much as the oil change itself.

How often should you change your oil?

Check your owner's manual. It lists the interval for your car, plus a shorter "severe service" interval for short trips, heavy loads, dusty roads or long periods of sitting. Most older cars, and especially anything from before 1990, fall into the severe category, so lean toward the shorter number. If your car sits for months at a time, change the oil at least once a year even if you haven't hit the mileage.

What oil and filter does your car need?

Your owner's manual lists three things you need before you buy anything:

Oil viscosity (for example 10W-40 or 0W-20)
Oil specification (API, ACEA or the manufacturer's own approval code)
Oil capacity with a filter change

Don't guess the capacity, and don't trust a number from a forum. Use the manual, a factory service manual or your parts store's lookup for your exact year, make, model and engine. Buy the filter the same way, by your exact car, and check that the new filter matches the old one when it comes off.

If you're working on an older engine, read what the manual says about oil type. Many older engines were designed around oils that are different from what's on the shelf today, so if you're not sure, ask a parts store or a club for your make.

What tools do you need to change your oil?

A floor jack (on Amazon), two jack stands (on Amazon) and wheel chocks (on Amazon), if you need to lift the car to reach the drain plug
A socket set (on Amazon) or a combination wrench (on Amazon) that fits your drain plug. Most foreign cars use a metric drain plug (13 mm to 19 mm is common); older domestic cars may use SAE sizes like 1/2" or 9/16". Some cars use a hex (Allen) plug instead.
A 1/2" drive ratchet (on Amazon) if the plug is stubborn
A torque wrench (on Amazon) for tightening the drain plug to spec
An oil filter wrench (on Amazon) that fits your filter
An oil drain pan (on Amazon) big enough for your car's full oil capacity
A funnel (on Amazon)
Nitrile gloves (on Amazon) and safety glasses (on Amazon)
Shop towels, plus cardboard or a drip mat (on Amazon) under the work area
A new oil filter, the right oil, and a new drain plug washer (crush washer) if your car uses one

If you're still putting your work area together, start with my guide on how to set up a DIY car workspace in any space. It covers safety, keeping your space clean and the starter tools you need.

How do you change your oil step by step?

Step 1: Warm it up, then let it cool a bit

Run the engine for a few minutes so the oil gets warm and flows out faster, carrying more dirt with it. Then shut it off and give it a little time. You want the oil warm, not hot enough to burn you. Exhaust parts near the drain plug stay hot for a long time.

Step 2: Set up safely

Park on a flat, solid surface.
Set the parking brake.
Chock the wheels that stay on the ground.

If you need to lift the car, use the jack points listed in your owner's manual (or search your car plus "jack points"), and set it down on jack stands. Never get under a car supported only by a jack. Jacks fail. Jack stands save lives.

Step 3: Find the drain plug and the filter

Slide under and find the drain plug at the lowest point of the oil pan. Make sure it's the engine oil pan and not the transmission or differential. If you're not sure, check a service manual or search your car plus "oil drain plug location."

Find the oil filter too. On most cars it's a spin-on canister on the side of the engine. Some cars, including a lot of European ones, use a cartridge filter that sits inside a housing on top of the engine.

Step 4: Drain the oil

Pull the oil filler cap off on top of the engine. It lets air in so the oil drains smoothly.
Put the drain pan under the plug, a little off to the side, because the oil comes out at an angle.
Break the plug loose with your socket and ratchet, then finish unscrewing it by hand while pushing it toward the pan. When it comes free, pull it away quickly.
Let it drain until it slows to a drip.

Check the old oil as it drains. Milky or foamy oil, or a lot of metal glitter, is worth looking into before you put new oil in.

Step 5: Replace the filter

Move the drain pan under the filter and loosen the filter with your filter wrench. It will be full of oil, so tilt it into the pan as it comes off. Make sure the old rubber gasket came off with it. If it stuck to the engine and you install a new filter over it, the oil will pour out the moment you start the car.

Wipe the mounting surface clean, rub a thin film of new oil on the new filter's gasket, and thread it on by hand. Tighten it the way the filter's instructions say, usually snug plus about three-quarters of a turn by hand. Don't use the filter wrench to tighten it. For a cartridge filter, replace the O-rings that come with the new element and torque the housing cap to the spec in your manual.

Step 6: Reinstall the drain plug

Wipe the plug clean, install a new crush washer if your car uses one, and thread it in by hand so it doesn't cross-thread. Then tighten it to your car's drain plug torque spec with a torque wrench (search your car plus "oil drain plug torque" if it's not in your manual). Oil pans, especially aluminum ones, strip easily, and this is the most common way people damage their car during an oil change.

Step 7: Fill with new oil

Lower the car if it was lifted, so it's sitting level. Using your funnel, pour in a little less than the capacity listed in your manual, then put the filler cap back on.

Step 8: Start it and check for leaks

Start the engine and let it run for about 30 seconds. The oil pressure light should go out within a few seconds. If it doesn't, shut the engine off and find out why. Look under the car for drips at the drain plug and filter.

Step 9: Check the level and top off

Shut the engine off and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle. Pull the dipstick, wipe it, push it all the way back in and pull it again. Add oil a little at a time until the level is at the full mark. Don't overfill.

Write down the date, mileage, oil and filter you used. A sticker on the windshield or a note in the glove box works.

How do you dispose of used oil?

Used oil is hazardous waste, and it's also completely recyclable. Never pour it on the ground, down a drain or in the trash.

Pour the old oil from the drain pan into a sealed container. A closed drain container with a sealing cap makes this easy, and an empty oil jug works great.
Drain the old filter into the pan for a while, then bag it.
Take the oil and the filter to a recycling drop-off. Many auto parts stores and local recycling centers take used oil for free. Call ahead or check your city or county's website for what they accept and how much.

When I take my used fluids in, I tie the jugs down in the truck bed with twine. The containers are light, so twine holds them just fine, and if any fluid leaks, I can just throw the twine away instead of cleaning a ratchet strap.

What should you check while you're under there?

You're already under the car with a light, so take two minutes and look for:

Oil leaks around the oil pan, valve cover and front and rear of the engine
Torn CV boots or loose suspension parts
Exhaust leaks, rust or broken hangers
Wet spots or crusty residue around the brake lines, coolant hoses and the transmission

Catching these early is one of the best reasons to do your own oil changes.

FAQ

Do I need to lift my car to change the oil?

Not always. Some cars have enough ground clearance to reach the drain plug and filter without lifting them. If you do lift the car, always use jack stands.

How tight should the drain plug be?

Tighten it to the torque spec for your car using a torque wrench. Overtightening is how drain plug threads get stripped.

How much oil does my car take?

Check your owner's manual for the capacity with a filter change. Fill a little under that, then use the dipstick to top it off.

Can I reuse the drain plug washer?

If your car uses a crush washer, replace it every time. They're cheap and they're designed to seal once.

Where can I take used oil?

Many auto parts stores and local recycling centers accept used oil and filters for free. Call ahead to confirm.

The Bottom Line

Changing your own oil is the easiest way to save money on your car, and it's the best way to get to know it. Use the right oil, torque the drain plug to spec and recycle the old stuff.

Want to see this done on a real car? Subscribe to ProjectDaily on YouTube for hands-on, no-nonsense DIY car videos. And if you want to rep the garage life while you wrench, check out the ProjectDaily apparel shop.

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