Buying a 1989 Toyota Pickup: A 22RE Pre-Purchase Inspection Checklist

Search "what to look for when buying a Toyota Pickup" and you'll land in a maze of forum threads, each with a different piece of the answer. Somebody says check the frame, somebody else says listen for the timing chain, and a third person argues about engines. It's all useful, but it's hard to use standing in a stranger's driveway.

So I put it in order. I own a 1989 Toyota Pickup, and this is the checklist I'd use to inspect one, written for a first-time buyer.

Why is the '84–'95 Toyota Pickup a great first project?

These trucks earned their reputation. They're simple, they're common, and there's a huge community of owners who've already solved almost every problem you'll run into. Parts are easy to find, how-to info is everywhere, and the basic maintenance is very doable at home.

That's exactly what you want in a first project. (If you're not sure a Pickup is the right truck for you, our guide on how to choose a car you can work on yourself walks through the decision.)

The catch: every one of these trucks is now more than 30 years old. Rust and worn parts are the norm, not the exception. Your job is to figure out how much of each you're buying.

How do you confirm the engine and drivetrain?

Before you inspect anything, make sure the truck is what the listing says it is.

22RE, 22R or V6?

A 1989 Pickup could leave the factory with a few different engines, including the 22R four-cylinder, the fuel-injected 22RE four-cylinder and a 3.0-liter V6. Sellers mix these up all the time.

• Count the spark plug wires. Four means a four-cylinder. Six means the V6.

• Read the emissions label under the hood. It lists the engine for that truck.

• Check the engine code on the block. Your factory service manual shows where it's stamped.

Why does it matter? Parts, known issues and value are different for each engine. For example, the 3.0 V6 has a long reputation for head gasket trouble, so if you're looking at a V6, ask for proof the head gaskets have been done.

2WD or 4WD, manual or automatic?

Look underneath for a front driveshaft and a front differential, and check for a transfer case shifter on the floor. Confirm the transmission type matches the listing. These details change the truck's value and the parts you'll buy later.

Where does rust hide on a Toyota Pickup?

Grab your flashlight (the flashlight I use) and an inspection mirror, and get under the truck. Surface rust is normal for its age. Holes, flaking scale and soft metal are not.

Frame behind the cab

This is the first place to look. Follow both frame rails, then spend extra time on the section right behind the cab, where dirt and moisture collect. Use the mirror to check the tops of the rails, which you can't see from underneath. Tap suspect spots gently with a screwdriver handle. Solid metal feels solid. Rot crunches.

Cab corners and rockers

Open the doors and look at the lower rear corners of the cab and along the rockers. Bubbling paint usually means rust is already underneath. Run a magnet along the lower panels (I use a telescoping pickup magnet with a thin cloth wrapped over the tip so it can't scratch the paint) to find spots where it won't stick, which can mean body filler.

Bed and spring hangers

Look at the bed floor from above and below, the inner wheel wells, and the rear spring hangers where the leaf springs mount to the frame.

What should you listen and look for at cold start?

Ask the seller not to start the truck before you arrive. Many problems hide once an engine is warm.

Before it starts

• Oil: Check the level and color. A milky look can mean coolant is mixing in.

• Coolant: With the engine cold, check the level and look for oil or sludge.

• Belts and hoses: Look for cracks and soft, swollen hoses.

Listen for timing chain rattle

On the 22R and 22RE, the timing chain runs on guides that wear with age. A worn setup often makes a rattle or slapping sound from the front of the engine, usually loudest right after a cold start. If it's ignored long enough, a loose chain can damage the timing cover. It's a well-known and fixable job, but it's a real cost to price in, and it tells you something about how the truck was maintained.

Smoke and idle

• A small puff at startup can be normal.

• Steady blue smoke points to burning oil.

• Thick white smoke that doesn't clear points to coolant.

• The idle should settle and smooth out as it warms up.

How should you test-drive it?

Drive on a mix of roads and speeds if you can.

• Gears: On a manual, every gear should go in without grinding, and the clutch shouldn't slip when you accelerate. On an automatic, shifts should be smooth with no slipping or long delays.

• Reverse: Don't forget it.

• 4WD: On a loose surface, shift into 4WD and confirm the 4WD indicator comes on and the front wheels actually pull. On many 4x4 trucks from this era, the front axle engages with a vacuum-operated system, which is a common trouble spot if 4WD won't engage.

• Brakes: The truck should stop straight without pulling, grinding or a pulsing pedal.

• Steering: Some play is normal in an old truck. A lot of play, wandering on the highway, or clunks over bumps are worth noting.

While you're at it, look at the tires. Uneven wear can point to alignment or suspension problems. Our guide on how to rotate your tires at home shows what normal and uneven wear look like.

What should you ask the seller?

| Question | Red-flag answer | |---|---| | How long have you owned it? | "Just a few weeks" (flipped trucks hide problems) | | Do you have maintenance records? | "No, but it's always run great" | | Has the timing chain been replaced? | "What's a timing chain?" | | Any rust repair? | "Just a little, it's nothing" with fresh undercoating everywhere | | Has it ever overheated? | Vague answers, or "only once" | | Can I look underneath and do a cold start? | Any version of "no" |

A seller who won't let you inspect is giving you an answer. Walk away.

What should you do with what you found?

Sort everything into three piles: walk away (serious frame rot, title problems, signs of overheating or coolant in the oil), price it in (timing chain, rust repair, worn suspension), and fix later (cosmetic stuff). Add up the "price it in" pile before you talk money.

Then see what the rest of the project might cost. Our real build numbers for a 1989 Toyota Pickup show how fast the list grows. And if you're also shopping 60-series Land Cruisers, read our FJ62 pre-purchase inspection guide.

FAQ

How do I check the 22RE timing chain?

Listen at the front of the engine right after a cold start. A rattle or slapping sound often points to worn chain guides. A shop or experienced owner can confirm it.

How can I tell a 22RE from the V6?

Count the spark plug wires (four vs six), read the emissions label under the hood, and check the engine code stamped on the block.

Is high mileage OK on a Toyota Pickup?

It can be. Condition and maintenance history matter more than the number on the odometer. A well-kept high-mileage truck beats a neglected low-mileage one.

Where do these trucks rust first?

The frame behind the cab, the cab corners, the rockers, the bed and the rear spring hangers.

The Bottom Line

The '84–'95 Toyota Pickup is one of the best first project trucks you can buy, as long as you buy the right one. Confirm the engine, take your time on rust, insist on a cold start, test every gear, and listen to how the seller answers your questions.

Bring the full checklist: Get the ProjectDaily Pre-Purchase Inspection Kit so nothing gets skipped in the seller's driveway. Need to build out your kit first? Start with our list of tools you need to work on your own car, then subscribe to ProjectDaily on YouTube to follow my Pickup build and see how I car hack a dream daily driver.

Build your dream daily.

Gear From This Post

• The flashlight I use (on Amazon)

• The inspection mirror I use (on Amazon)

• The telescoping pickup magnet I use (on Amazon)

• My screwdriver set (on Amazon)

• The mechanic's creeper I use (on Amazon)

• The gloves I use (on Amazon)